Monday, April 23, 2018

Finesse of Wool Designations

Lana, laine, wolle, and ull are important words to know. Why, because these all mean wool in
Italian/Spanish, French, German, and Icelandic/Norwegian respective. I haunt thrift stores looking for premium fabric for my sewing projects at budget prices. Here is find from yesterday--fine weave, 140s wool made in Italy. This 2.5 yard of 66 inch wide material cost me $6. Just enough material to make a Victorian riding jacket.

The 140s refers to an international designation representing the fineness of the wool. Per Wikipedia, "The International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) defines the S number by correlation to maximum fiber diameter. For example, 80s must have maximum fiber diameter of 19.75 micrometres or finer and 90s, 19.25 micrometres or finer. This scale continues to the 210s at 13.25 micrometre or finer. Thus each step of ten (as from 80s to 90s or 90s to 100s) corresponds to 0.5 micrometre less in allowed maximum fiber diameter." In other words, the higher the number the finer or thinner the wool. In my thrift shopping, I found a small piece of 150S wool fabric made in Australia that was so thin it was almost see through.

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